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(Bio)Technological aspects of microalgae pigments for cosmetics

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Abstract

Photosynthetic microorganisms convert carbon dioxide and solar radiation into interesting bioactive compounds not yet entirely explored. Several species of microalgae are known to be rich in colored high-valuable components that, although remarkable, are poorly explored as natural sources of pigments for cosmetics. Pigments associated to photosynthetic activity include chlorophyll, β-carotene, astaxanthin, xanthophylls, and phycobiliproteins, many of which have shown high potential as cosmetic actives due to their antioxidant, immune-enhancing, and anti-inflammatory properties. In the last decade, concern with a young and beautiful appearance has emerged, encouraging many consumers to use anti-aging cosmetics daily. As a result, the cosmetic market has been growing and evolving rapidly to meet consumer expectations. However, due to regular use and the sensitive nature of facial skin, local adverse reactions may often occur, such as irritation, sensitization, or photoreactions, and safety evaluation is mandatory prior to marketing. It is, therefore, understandable that new actives from natural sources, such as microalgae, are perceived as attractive alternatives for consumers who seek ingredients without allergenic potential. Thus, the cosmetic industry has recently started to explore the inclusion of compounds extracted from microalgae and cyanobacteria in innovative formulations. Herein, we revised nontraditional microalgae species for pigment production with cosmetic applications, indicating those that could also be considered potential ingredients for innovative cosmetics.

Key points

• Extraction methods for pigments from photosynthetic microorganisms were compiled.

• Innovative cosmeceuticals could be developed with natural pigments.

• Safety features of such natural pigments were also described.

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Acknowledgments

The authors would like to thank São Paulo Research Foundation (FAPESP), Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq), Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES), and Mayla Santos Rodrigues, PhD in Pharmaceutical Technology and Biochemical Engineering, and Scientific Proof-reader for her help with the manuscript.

Funding

This work was supported by FAPESP (Process 2015/11194-6) and CNPq (Process 305250/2019-1).

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Authors

Contributions

A.L.M.J.: conceptualization, funding acquisition, and writing (original draft). N. R.: writing (original draft). R.M.M.: writing (original draft). J.C.M.C.: validation. T.S. A.: writing (original draft). J.G.C.: writing (original draft). C.R.: writing (review and editing). M.V.R.V.: writing (review and editing). A.R.B.: supervision, conceptualization, and writing (review and editing). All authors contributed to the discussion and approval of the final manuscript.

Corresponding authors

Correspondence to Ana Lucía Morocho-Jácome or André Rolim Baby.

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The authors declare that they have no competing interests.

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This mini-review does not contain any studies with human participants or animals performed by any of the authors.

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Morocho-Jácome, A.L., Ruscinc, N., Martinez, R.M. et al. (Bio)Technological aspects of microalgae pigments for cosmetics. Appl Microbiol Biotechnol 104, 9513–9522 (2020). https://doi.org/10.1007/s00253-020-10936-x

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  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s00253-020-10936-x

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